Nature

On the trail of the old salt road that crosses the Luberon on a trek with packed donkeys, that proceeds to the rhythm of these charming animals, emblematic of Provence.

By Jean-Dominique Dalloz - Photos DR - January 30, 2012

The track is steep and everyone saves his or her energy. There are four hikers in total, a couple and their two children. Well, there are actually six of them, because two donkeys accompany the little family. Agile and tough, the two animals carry the bags, attached to a packsaddle. They walk with a sure step, at the speed of their human companions.

The day before, the four hikers were received in Vaugines by Bernadette Simon, a donkey driver who organizes these treks. The kids immediately take to the donkeys, lavishing them with pats and cuddles, while the parents listen attentively to the technical advice and get used to hiking with the pack animals.

"All donkeys behave in a similar way to five year old children”, Bernadette Simon tells them. “Be firm from the beginning, as they will test you right from the outset.”

The donkey handler also reminded them of the safety instructions, such as not leaving a child on the back of the donkey through difficult passages. She also insisted on the necessary respect for the animal: not too heavy loads, to balance the bags… An active member of the national federation of donkey handlers Anes et Randonnées, she spreads their values: reliable donkeys, well taken care of and equipped, prepared itineraries, recommendations adapted to the chosen hike, respect for the environment…

Today, the caravan makes it to Lourmarin . After having taken the horse-riding track, which in the past allowed one to avoid the valley below, a truly cutthroat place under the control of bandits, the walkers take the Aiguebrun valley. In a few minutes, a distance has grown up between the two donkeys, led on leads by the two adults. The one behind starts trotting to catch up with his mate, obliging some of the troop to keep up!

The late-afternoon light is beautiful, and envelops the Séguins farm in a golden glow. Man and animals will be able to have something to eat then rest.

Tomorrow, the leg will be shorter in kilometers, but more difficult. From Le Castelas, the group will take an old mule track cut through the rock to reach the Mourre Nègre, the highest point in the Luberon . A chance to verify that the donkey’s sure step is not a legend. For a long time the animal was the favorite means of transport on this winding, steep track, which leads from mountain country to the Durance plain.

Tonight, we’ll camp out under the stars. A magnificent vista is guaranteed. Parents and children sleep in the tent, while the two donkeys will rest quietly in the pasture, attached with long ropes.

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The next two days will take the family and their companions along the crests of the Mourre Nègre summit, right up to the highest village in the Luberon, Vitrolles. Afterwards comes the forest track on the southern slope of the mountain, to join the Aigues country, through the vines. And at the end of the hike, “heartbreak for the children” smiles Bernadette Simon; “they get attached so quickly to the donkeys, which repay in kind.”

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